Test your keyboard inputs.
How to use: press any key on your real keyboard — it lights up on the board below and turns purple once tested.
Check these before you start
- Focus this tabClick the page once — keys only register while this browser tab is active.
- Connect directlyUSB hubs, KVM switches and docks can drop presses; try a direct port if a key misbehaves.
- Turn off Fn / game lockA Fn-lock or "game mode" can silently disable the Windows key or the whole function row.
- Match your OS layoutIf the wrong character types, the switch is fine — set your input language to match the board.
How to test your keyboard
- 1
Press every key. Work across the whole board — letters, numbers, the function row, arrows, and modifiers like Shift, Ctrl, and Alt. Each key lights up the moment it registers and turns purple once tested, and the progress bar tracks how much of a standard layout you've covered.
- 2
Watch for the gaps. Any key that never lights up when you press it is the one to investigate — usually a dead switch, dirt under the keycap, or a broken trace. A key that shows as active the instant the page loads points to a stuck key or short.
- 3
Dig deeper if needed. Use the Event Logger to read raw keycodes and catch a key that fires twice, the Anti-Ghosting test to check how many keys register at once, or the Shortcut tester for key combinations.
Why test your keyboard with us?
Nothing you type is saved
Every keypress is read and thrown away inside your browser — no account, no upload, no log kept anywhere. That makes it safe to hammer on the keys even on a work, library, or store-display machine.
Spot a dead or sticky key in seconds
Press across the whole board and instantly see which keys don't light up. It's the fastest way to check a second-hand keyboard before you pay, or to pin down exactly which switch is failing before a repair or warranty claim.
More than a key checker
Alongside the visual tester you get a typing-speed test, a shortcut and combo checker, an anti-ghosting (rollover) test, and a raw key-event logger — everything you need to profile a keyboard in one place.
Works on anything, no install
It runs in any modern browser on Windows, macOS, Linux, or ChromeOS — no drivers, downloads, or admin rights. Plug in a keyboard (or use your laptop's built-in one) and start pressing keys straight away.
How online keyboard testing works
This tester reads the standard KeyboardEvent your browser fires on every press. Each keystroke carries a code — the physical key, independent of your language layout (for example KeyA or Enter) — and a key, the character it produces. We match the code to the key drawn on screen and light it up, entirely on your own device.
Because it uses only standard web APIs, it runs in any modern browser on Windows, macOS, Linux, or ChromeOS with no drivers or downloads — and nothing you press ever leaves your computer. The trade-off is that a browser only sees what the operating system passes to it: dedicated media keys and some Fn combinations that adjust volume or brightness are handled by the OS before any web page sees them, so they may not register here. That is expected, and not a fault in your keyboard.
Keyboard types explained
Keyboards differ in two big ways: the switch under each key — how it feels and registers — and the overall size. Here's a quick map of both.
By switch — how the keys work
Mechanical
A spring-loaded switch under every key.
Best for: Typists & gamers who want feel and durability.
Magnetic (Hall effect)
Magnets and sensors read exact key depth — no physical contact.
Best for: Competitive gamers wanting adjustable, ultra-fast actuation.
Membrane / rubber dome
A rubber layer presses a circuit sheet beneath the keys.
Best for: Budget builds and quiet offices.
Optical
A light beam is broken to register each press.
Best for: Gamers wanting fast, contactless keys on a budget.
Scissor (low-profile)
A scissor mechanism stabilises a short-travel dome.
Best for: Laptops and slim desktop setups.
Other niche types exist too — capacitive (Topre) and buckling-spring boards are prized by enthusiasts for their unique feel.
By size — which layout fits you
| Size | What it is | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Full-size (100%) | Everything, including the number pad. | Data entry, spreadsheets, accounting |
| TKL (80%) | Drops the number pad; keeps function row and arrows. | Most people — more mouse room for gaming |
| 75% | TKL keys packed tight; function row and arrows kept. | Full function on a small desk |
| 65% | No function row; arrow keys stay. | Compact setups that still need arrows |
| 60% | No function row or arrows (reached via a Fn layer). | Minimalists and portability |
| 40% | Letters only; everything else lives on layers. | Enthusiasts who love ultra-compact |
Who uses a keyboard tester
Second-hand buyers
Check that every key works before you pay for a used keyboard or laptop — the fastest pre-purchase inspection there is.
Gamers
Confirm your board handles fast, simultaneous presses without dropping inputs, and that your movement and action keys all register together.
Repair & warranty
Pinpoint the exact key that has failed before you open a warranty claim or swap a single hot-swap switch.
Developers & remote workers
Verify a new, borrowed, or office keyboard in seconds — or debug exactly how your own web app receives keyboard input.
Common keyboard problems & how to fix them
A key doesn't respond
If a key sends no event here, it points to a dead switch, debris under the keycap, or a broken trace. Try compressed air or a little isopropyl alcohol under the cap; on hot-swap boards, replacing that one switch is the permanent fix.
The wrong character types
If the correct physical key lights up but the wrong letter or symbol appears, your operating system has the wrong layout active (US vs UK, AZERTY, or Dvorak). The keyboard is fine — change the input language in your system settings.
A key registers twice (chatter)
A worn switch can bounce and send two presses from one tap. Open the Event Logger and tap the key once — two keydown events confirm chatter.
Keys drop during fast typing or gaming
If some keys don't register when you press several at once, your board has reached its rollover limit. Measure how many it handles on the Anti-Ghosting test.
Keyboard glossary
- Ghosting
- When pressing several keys at once causes some to not register, because of how the keyboard's wiring matrix is laid out.
- Key rollover / NKRO
- How many keys can be held and still register at the same time. N-Key Rollover (NKRO) treats every key independently; 6KRO handles six keys plus modifiers.
- Polling rate
- How often the keyboard reports its state to the computer, measured in Hz (e.g. 125Hz or 1000Hz). A higher rate can mean slightly lower input latency.
- Keycode
- The identifier a browser reports for a key.
codeis the physical key (independent of layout);keyis the character it produces. - Key chatter
- A worn or dirty switch that bounces, registering a single press as two or more.
- Actuation
- The point in a key's downward travel where the press is registered.
- Modifier key
- Keys like Shift, Ctrl, Alt, and Cmd/Win that change what other keys do rather than typing a character on their own.
- Debounce
- A short delay the keyboard's firmware waits after a key changes state, filtering out the electrical bounce of the switch contacts so a single press can't register as several.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test my Fn keys?
The Fn key (Function-key modifier) doesn't emit a keycode on its own, so pressing Fn by itself won't light anything up here — that's normal, not a fault. The actions Fn triggers, like volume, brightness, and media control, are handled by your operating system before the browser sees them, so no website can capture them. The reliable way to confirm those work is to watch their real effect: hold Fn, tap the key, and check that the volume or brightness actually changes.
Why is a key lit up when I haven't pressed it?
If a key appears active instantly upon page load, it means your keyboard has a "stuck key" or a mechanical short circuit sending a constant key code. Try unplugging and cleaning under the switch cap. You can monitor active raw event values on our Event Logger.
A key won't light up here — does that mean it's broken?
Usually, yes — if a key sends no event, the tester can't detect it, which points to a dead switch, a broken trace, or debris under the cap. Before assuming hardware failure, rule out the simple causes: make sure the browser tab is focused, that a Fn-lock or gaming/"game mode" isn't disabling that key, and (for the Windows key) that it hasn't been disabled in your OS. If it still won't register anywhere, it's almost certainly the keyboard, not this site.
The right letters light up but the wrong characters type. What's wrong?
That's a software layout mismatch, not a hardware fault. The physical switch is fine (the correct key lights up), but your operating system is mapping it to a different character set — for example a US keyboard running under a UK, AZERTY, or Dvorak layout will swap symbols like @, ", and #. Fix it in your OS keyboard/language settings and switch the input language to match the physical board.
One key registers twice when I press it once (key chatter). Can I confirm it?
Yes. "Chatter" is a worn or dirty switch bouncing and sending two presses from one physical tap. Open the Event Logger and tap the suspect key once, slowly — if you see two keydown events for a single press, that switch is chattering. A blast of compressed air or contact cleaner sometimes fixes it; on hot-swap boards, replacing the single switch is the permanent cure.